A launch like no other

We arrived at St.Briavels Castle in Lydney on Thursday, through the sunny hills of the Forest of Dean to be part of the launch of Native Breeds.

Graham & Ruth Waddington have been working tirelessly on building their new business, and after much success it was time to celebrate.

Guests included the lovely Kate Humble, and Kevin Gratton of Hix. I met with the jersey farmers of Saint Hill and The charming Maurice Trumper who supplies the Saddlebacks.

We ate a feast of meat that highlighted what such amazing makers they are – We are all in for a treat.

You can now buy monthly charcuterie boxes from them. Contact them on the link below.

Native Breeds

One Pig – Matthew Herbert traces it from farm to our fork

Last week I was at One Pig, a aural trace of a pigs life from the comforts of the farm to my fork. The very same day I had just returned from Wales, where we celebrated by slicing up our first samples of our hams. Timely?

I have been a fan of Herbert for at least 10 years when a friend of mine invited me to a gig in an upstairs venue in Melbourne. I remember some use of a toaster, and a sample of a kettle. I hadn’t seen him for years, but then I saw that he was to perform his new album One Pig, with a dinner prepared by the guys from Shaklewell Nights and Rosie Sykes. I was nervous that after the dinner my apetite would be suppressed - my dinner partner was fearful I was going to turn her vegetarian – all unfounded.

The performance was set-up like a barn dance. The hay barrels were actually instruments, and the pen was linked to electronic pig samples that were played like a loose harp. The whole thing was added drama by the white lab coats the musicians wore, and specifically the months on Yann Seznec’s coat, who played the pen, which counted down the pigs months to live.

Having spent the last year doing my own research on pigs – involving the visiting of beautiful farms at parts, and then also the more gruesome abattoirs, this event seemed more personal. The six month life span of a pig previously had been discussed as a factual farm term that we had used to reference weight, and also the cost impact for the farmer. Suddenly now seen from the perspective of the pig, 6 months which equates to around 5% of it’s potential life span, becames apparent.

The conversation that preempted the performance dallied with some of these pretty big issues revolving commercial food production. This album approaches this topic which so often can be interpreted as sanctimonious at best in a new and refreshing way. It is hard to find an answer to this ever growing issue while you are about to stuff your face full of pork, but I am glad that the conversation was being had.

Unlike many of the great albums of the year, I don’t think I will hear the One Pig album again with intent, although I was in a cafe yesterday and the music they played there was very similar. Perhaps it wasn’t so obscure that you can’t listen to it while drinking latte’s. One thing this event did do was lead me to  the purchase of Eating Animals, by Jonathan Saffran Foer. Up to now I had tried to avoid this book in the fear that I too would be changed for life. But going into a world of meat production has made me face the true realities of the food chain and part of eat is surmised brilliantly by Foer. I would recommend anyone who eats meat to read this book, but as I am sure you know already, it isn’t all beautiful.

More reviews of it here:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/music/worldfolkandjazz/8962176/One-Pig-Cafe-Oto-review.html

http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/music/review-24022174-matthew-herbert-one-pig-dead-and-alive-cafe-oto—review.do

http://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/15930-matthew-herbert-one-pig/

What will our first pigs taste like? Will it be Biscuits or Apples?

We are doing it. Finally. And it’s more exciting than I ever thought it would be. Our first animals have been slaughtered and the curing has begun. Having talked about this for so long, that now that we finally are doing it, it feels quite unreal.

This process is a research project. We like both farms, but they couldn’t be more different. We have nicknamed them the biscuit pig and the apple pig. Both are Organically raised, and the husbandry top quality, but the feeds are worlds apart.

The biscuit pig has been raised on fancy crumbs. In the great application of re-using waste as pigs for century’s have been used for (until some dumb asses fed pigs, pigs) our farmer has been feeding the BPigs some delicious oaty goodness. Intrigued as to what this would do to the meat, and to the fat, we were pleased to find an amazing level of marbling, and an almost creaminess to the fat. And fat is something that this breed produces plenty of.

The apple pig has been raised on.. fruit, naturally. And plenty of it. When I first met with these farmers, I was amazed at what commitment they had towards their feed – often travelling up to 100 miles to find fresh fruit and veg waste. They truly believed that feed and the traditional European methods of pig farming was the best way to go, and were doing all they could to do so. They also had sacrificed their Henry IV apple orchard for their animals, which the pigs were taking full advantage of.

Another difference was the amount of time.

The BP has been raised for 10 months. The farmer believes that any longer and the fat to meat ratio is disproportionate. The Mangalitza is a relatively small pig, and yet produces a large volume of fat. Any longer, on the high carb diet of tasty biscuits and all you will get is more fat. Even with the animal at 10 months, he came in as 95 kilo’s and almost 50% of that was lard. No pancetta either, as the belly doesn’t have sufficient meat on it. We are going to have to use another breed for that.

The AP has been raised for 18 months. This, with the addition to a large pen, and a less fatty diet has led to a leaner pig, with darker meat and a different quality lard. The weight, surprisingly is not too different to the younger pig, but the muscles appear more worked. This could have something to do with the pen set-up; having all the animals in one pen ensures that they interact differently, more actively.

Now that they are butchered and are laying in their cures, we have to wait patiently and see. This process is a long one, but one that will produce results. We just have to decide which of the results taste the best.

Art & Agriculture

Old Field Farm, in upstate NY is actively incorporating art amongst its agriculture.

It utilises 160 acres of land in a mixture of different practices, creating a limited but high quality product that is available through their farm buying club or through a limited amount of stores in NYC.

It has recently won some funding to develop further their animal husbandry work.

Their way of working is shown online through a series of simple images and video…. oh…. and they also make their own Lardo.

Courtesy of the lovely Design Squish Blog

Our American journey: redux

Firmly back in the land of reality now, after nearly two months off the road and back into the normality of our old routine. It’s easy to let the memories of our amazing trip fade back into he recesses of our minds but the truth is that 8000 miles through the heart of the USA does have a way of changing a person! Both E and I have returned invigorated and in my case slightly more hirsute – but grateful for the opportunities that lie in front of us both. It’s time to change things up.

Continue reading

Polyface Farm: a happy place to be, if you’re a piggy…

Joel Salatin is a rockstar farmer. I first saw him interviewed on the documentary ‘Food Inc.’ and he has been instrumental in bringing the farm – and this is the small multi-crop farm, not your industrial scale mono-crop farms – to the public’s attention.

Continue reading

Hailing the School Bus Farmers Market

Mobile food is of great interest to me, as is the humble Farmers’ Market. When I bought People magazine a month or so ago, probably whilst picking up some fuel to feed my boredom on the road, I didn’t think that I would be reading about Mark Lilly and his food campaign.

Continue reading